There was a time when a pair of clean white leather sneakers was all you needed. They went with jeans, worked with chinos and could even be dressed up with tailoring when the occasion called for it. And while there’s still a strong case for owning a pair, limiting yourself to one style means missing out on some of the most interesting footwear around.
These days, a well-rounded sneaker rotation is about more than having options. Different shapes, colours and textures serve different purposes, giving you more ways to get dressed without overhauling the rest of your wardrobe.
Dutch footwear specialist ETQ Amsterdam understands this approach particularly well. Known for its stripped-back aesthetic, premium materials and shoes handmade in Portugal, the brand offers a wide range of understated styles, from classic leather low-tops to contemporary takes on retro runners and deck shoes.
Here are six we’re making room for this season, and why each deserves consideration.
The Brown Nubuck Sneaker
White and black might be the default colours for everyday trainers, but brown deserves just as much attention. Especially when rendered in nubuck, a soft, subtly textured leather that adds warmth and depth to even the simplest footwear designs.
Chocolate brown is especially useful during the colder months, sitting comfortably alongside the earthy tones and heavier fabrics that dominate autumn and winter wardrobes. Try pairing brown nubuck trainers with indigo denim and a grey wool overcoat, or olive chinos and an oatmeal knit. They also pair beautifully with ecru trousers, adding contrast without the starkness of black.
The LT 01 Shades Nubuck Chocolate strikes the right balance. The clean, low-top upper keeps things understated, while the thicker sole gives the shoe enough presence to work with contemporary trouser cuts.
The premium nubuck has a velvety finish that develops character with wear, so this pair should only get more interesting over time.
The Deck Shoe Hybrid
The traditional boat shoe is enjoying a revival, but not everyone wants to embrace its preppy, nautical associations. Enter the deck shoe hybrid, which borrows the original’s familiar shape and moccasin-style stitching and pairs it with a contemporary sneaker sole.
The combination makes more sense than you might expect. The low-profile upper feels smarter than a conventional trainer, while the substantial rubber sole brings a more relaxed, modern edge. Think of it as a useful middle ground between loafers and sneakers, particularly if you favour clothes that blur the distinction between smart and casual.
The DS 03 is a good example of how to get it right. Made from full-grain leather, it retains the recognisable lines of a classic deck shoe but replaces the traditional sole with something altogether more contemporary. Wear it with relaxed tailored trousers and a fine-gauge knit, or straight-leg jeans and a heavyweight Oxford shirt. It’s the sort of footwear that makes an outfit feel considered without looking like you’ve tried too hard.
The Retro Gum-Sole Sneaker
Gum soles feel reassuringly familiar. A fixture of vintage court shoes and old-school sports footwear, its distinctive caramel colouring instantly gives trainers a slightly nostalgic feel.
The appeal lies in the contrast. Against an understated upper in cream, taupe or grey, a gum sole adds just enough colour and visual interest to make an otherwise simple shoe stand out. It’s also an effective way to add a retro element to your wardrobe without committing to anything overly sporty or trend-driven.
Take the LT 05 Layered Gum Desert Taupe. Inspired by classic court shoes, it pairs a vintage-style toe cap and gum sole with a restrained nubuck-and-suede upper. Subtle piped seams add another layer of detail, while the tonal palette keeps everything versatile.
Pair them with faded straight-leg jeans, a white T-shirt and a suede jacket or use them to soften pleated wool trousers. They prove retro-inspired footwear doesn’t need to look like a museum piece.
The Refined Retro Runner
Running-inspired trainers have become a staple of everyday menswear, and it’s easy to see why. Their combination of technical materials, layered uppers and sculpted soles offers something that traditional leather sneakers simply can’t.
The trick is finding a pair that feels sporty without looking as though you’re about to head out for a 10K. That usually means restrained branding, considered colour combinations and a silhouette that complements your clothes rather than competing with them.
The RS 01 runner range strikes that balance nicely. Mixing suede, nubuck and breathable mesh, the design takes its cues from classic running footwear but introduces a broader, more substantial sole that works particularly well with modern, relaxed silhouettes.
It also comes in a few colourways. Desert Taupe offers an easy entry point for anyone who favours neutral dressing, while White/Cement Grey delivers a more traditional running-shoe look. Jet Black is an understated option for darker wardrobes, and Blueberry adds a welcome hint of colour.
Whatever you choose, pair them with straight- or wide-leg trousers, relaxed denim or technical outerwear. The slightly chunkier proportions balance fuller cuts, making this one of the easiest ways to give familiar outfits a contemporary twist.
The Minimalist White Leather Sneaker
Some things become classics for a reason, and the white leather low-top is one of them. Trends come and go, silhouettes get bigger or slimmer, but a well-made pair of simple white trainers remains one of the most versatile footwear purchases a man can make.
The beauty of this style is that it disappears into an outfit. They don’t demand attention or dictate what you wear with them. Instead, they quietly bridge the gap between casual and smart-casual, working as well with navy tailoring as with washed denim and a sweatshirt.
But simple doesn’t mean all white sneakers are created equal. When there’s nowhere for unnecessary detailing or loud branding to hide, the leather quality, sole proportions and overall shape matter more.
The LT 01 Court Lite Premium Nappa White is a prime example. Its smooth nappa leather upper features minimal panelling and stitching, creating a clean, uninterrupted silhouette. With a comfortable removable insole and restrained detailing, it’s the kind of shoe that can anchor countless outfits without ever feeling out of place.
The All-Black Mid-Top
When temperatures drop and outfits become heavier, low-profile sneakers can sometimes look a little lost. That’s where the mid-top shines. Sitting just above the ankle, it offers a more substantial silhouette that works particularly well with the thicker fabrics, wider trousers and bulkier outerwear of autumn and winter.
The style has its roots in basketball footwear, but strip away the bright colours and oversized branding, and you’re left with something surprisingly versatile. An all-black leather version is particularly effective, offering much of a boot’s visual weight with the comfort and ease of a trainer.
The MT 02 Rugged All Black is a fine example. Handmade in Portugal from premium full-grain leather, it features a structured ankle collar, clean panelling and a substantial rubber sole. A removable memory-foam insole provides comfort underfoot, while tonal metal eyelets and laces keep the design understated.
Wear them with straight-leg black denim and a heavyweight overshirt, or charcoal wool trousers and a substantial overcoat. They’re an easy way to add a little more presence to cold-weather outfits without reaching for your boots.
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A paid partnership with ETQ – words and opinions are Ape’s own.