I spent the next day reveling in those crystal waters. At Sweet Bottom Dive Center, I rented a mask and fins, and went snorkeling among the parrotfish, angelfish, and wrasse that inhabit the shallow reef just offshore. After watching a sea turtle munch on seagrass, I flipped over onto my back. Above the beach the densely forested peaks of Maroon Country rose in layers, a physical reminder of the many lives and histories held within.

Where to stay

The Waves at Cane Bay, an 11-room boutique hotel built into the rocky shoreline overlooking the bay, was reimagined in 2021 as a stylish oceanfront retreat with private patios, two bars, and the sustainable seafood restaurant Ama. The hotel is a four-minute walk to the beach at Cane Bay and a nine-minute drive to the new Mount Eagle trailhead.

Where to eat

Located directly across the road from Cane Bay, the Landing Beach Bar serves up Caribbean specialties like jerk chicken and fried plantains in a fun, convivial setting. Leatherback Brewing Company is St. Croix’s first craft brewery and an unofficial headquarters for the island’s mountain-biking community, complete with a full-service bike shop inside.

This article appeared in the December 2026 issue of Condé Nast Traveler. Subscribe to the magazine here.