Leméac does not have a dedicated fryer, so fries don’t work for celiacs. But I promise you won’t miss them. We favor the textbook duck confit, served with roasted potatoes and a bright green salad. For dessert there’s an unmissable gluten-free chocolate-and-banana moelleux, a decadent cake served with caramel and popcorn ice cream, along with many other classics, including crème caramel.

Syrian selections

Montreal is also home to a number of fabulous Middle Eastern and North African restaurants, some of which can cater to gluten-free diners—albeit with asterisks. We love the standout Damas, a Syrian fine-dining spot on a pretty corner in Outremont, though gluten-free choices are limited. Still, it’s worth the trip for the ground lamb and eggplant kebab grilled over open charcoal and accompanied by charred pepper, tomato butter, and gobs of garlic labneh and the dreamy hummus topped with lamb shawarma and pine nuts, which can be served with crudités rather than pita. Both are among the best things I’ve eaten in recent memory.

Le Petit Alep, a neighborhood institution near Jean-Talon, offers more Syrian and Armenian options. The marvelous mezes are largely gluten-free and served—upon request—with crudités; savory, comforting mujaddara is made with lentils and rice, no bulgur, barley, or other glutenous grains. End with the house herbal tea, a beautiful floral mixture of cardamom pods, mint, rosewater, and orange blossom. I’ve tried to make it at home, but I can’t quite replicate it. That’s okay—I’ll be back next year.