Japan’s sweets span an expansive spectrum, from traditional creations known as wagashi to Western-inspired yogashi treats. Be it a jelly-like yokan in a neat rectangular block, a sweet bean-filled mochi in the form of a flower or tiny white sugar balls, Japanese confectionery is conventionally rooted in time and place. The centuries-old flowering of confectionery craftsmanship is closely linked to the rise of the tea world, with a single sweet presented before drinking a bowl of matcha during a tea ceremony.
Today, Japan’s train stations heave with boxes of exquisitely wrapped treats, often tied to microseasonal flavours, local ingredients, nature-mirroring shapes and old pilgrim routes – reflecting the nation’s thriving omiyage (souvenir) culture, as well as its love of sweets. Numerous confectioners can still be found across the country – from the big names, such as Toraya (with its serene architect-designed flagships) and designer Shinichiro Ogata’s Higashiya, to family-run shops dating back generations. Here we have picked out a few that hit our sweet spot.
Toraya A red circle of sun sinking into the sea against a blazing sky: this image is embodied in this sweet – with graphic lines, curves and colours shaping both the packaging and the confectionery itself. Called Umi (‘Sea’), it’s among a series of seasonal yokan – a traditional sweet bean jelly treat – made by Toraya, one of Japan’s best-known confectioners. With roots dating back more than five centuries and longstanding Imperial ties, the company also has contemporary flagship confectionery spaces, designed by architect Hiroshi Naito, in Kyoto and Tokyo. toraya-group.co.jp
Shioyoshiken Small but perfectly formed white balls that melt on the tongue are among countless handmade treats sold at this family-run sweetmaker, based out of an old wooden house on a quiet street in Kyoto’s historic Nishijin textile district. Made from wasanbon sugar with a small amount of natto (savoury fermented soybeans) from the nearby Daitokuji temple, the kogoh rakugan also feature a small red dot – symbolising a courtly female mouth – as a delicate finishing touch. The rakugan are sold either in small white paper boxes, or in light sugi cedar boxes, wrapped in paper with a pine tree motif and a small auspicious decoration by a local artisan. kyogashi.com
Higashiya Kelp, black sesame, white sesame, yuzu pepper, plum: an array of flavours define these mamegashi bean and nut sweets, crafted by Tokyo- based brand Higashiya. Created by Shinichiro Ogata, of design studio Simplicity, its season-mirroring treats come in pared-back minimalist packaging. Ogata is also behind Saboe, a network of tea spaces across Japan, as well as Ogata at The Shinmonzen in Kyoto and, for those outside Japan, Ogata Paris. higashiya.com
Uchu Wagashi This modern Kyoto brand, set up by graphic designer-turned-sweetmaker Katsuya Kimoto, features playfully contemporary packaging with graphic patterns and rainbow-toned motifs, from animals to acorns. The sweets mirror their packaging in form and shades, yet are crafted using traditional handmaking techniques and ingredients, from wooden moulds to wasanbon sugar. The main store, on the eastern edge of the Imperial Palace park, is also home to a peaceful café. uchu-wagashi.jp
Opposite, clockwise from top left, Umi seasonal yokan by Toraya and roasted green tea yokan by Irodori; crane-inspired Tsuruyado wasanbon sugar tea cakes by Tsuruya Yoshinobu; Hoshi Kohaku kohakutou jelly candies by Kyoto Tsuraya; kohakutou amber candy sticks by Irodori
Tsuruya Yoshinobu For more than 200 years, this confectionery brand has been renowned in Kyoto for its wagashi, with a history rooted in the Imperial family and the tea world. Today, the Nishijin flagship store sells an array of crafted treats (there is also a tea room upstairs, where an expert wagashi artisan can shape and mould the sweet of your choice at the counter, to be enjoyed alongside whisked matcha). A highlight are Tsuruyado – dry white sugar sweets inspired by a red-crowned crane (a symbol of longevity, good fortune and happiness) – presented in small wrapped paper boxes. tsuruyayoshinobu.jp
Irodori An offshoot of historic Kyoto brand Tsuruya Yoshinobu (see above), Irodori offers a modern interpretation of Japan’s sweets world. Its signature creations are the colourful stick versions of the traditional crystal-like amber candy known as kohakutou. Smoothly presented in clear modern packaging, the colourful light-filtering sweets come in five aromatic flavours: lavender, mint, rose, camomile and jasmine. tsuruyayoshinobu.jp
Satoya Founded in 1821, and the oldest sweetmakers in Yamagata City, northern Japan, Satoya has long been famed for its tangy plum noshi-ume sweets. Another highlight are its layered blocks of plum jelly, presented in painterly paper wrapping decorated with calligraphic abstractions of waves beneath the moon. satoya-matsubei.com
Toshoan Picture perfectly cubed paper boxes in modern monotones. And inside are cookies, with a Japanese twist – the soft wagashi-like texture made by mixing red bean paste, known as an, into the gluten-free dough. An de cookie – in an array of flavours (and coloured boxes), from framboise and kinako (roasted soybean) to matcha and cherry blossom – are popular modern treats dreamt up by Toshoan, a decades-old Kyoto bean paste company. toshoan.com
Kyoto Tsuruya A sky scattered with stars is the inspiration behind Hoshi Kohaku, the kohakutou sweets in jewel-bright shades of yellow, green and pink, made by confectioner Kyoto Tsuruya. Made with Tanba thread agar and sugar, the candies are slightly crystalline in form yet soft and jelly-like to bite into. Packaged in simple clear boxes, the colourful, fragmented form of the sweets shine brightly. kyototsuruya.co.jp
Noake Tokyo Origami-like paper folds, meticulously wrapped around a circular tin, instantly root this product in the world of Japanese confectionery. Upon unwrapping and opening it, however, the contents are something of a surprise: the freezable popsicles, called Candy Frappé – which come in flavours ranging from strawberry and rose to mandarin and osmanthus – sport striking labels with minimalist typography. The candies are the creation of Noake Tokyo, a popular sweetmaker known for its inventive flavours and modern riffs on traditional confectionery. noake.jp
Photos: Joana Gauer. Set design: Johanne Mills