As watch collectors’ interests have started to prioritize design—strange shapes like the Cartier Crash and everyone from Rolex to Nomos pursuing big pops of color—the arms race to distinguish one watch from another by any means possible has gotten especially heated. Lately, several brands have revived an ancient technique that involves small hammers, or in the case of one new hotshot, a chisel. What’s really exciting is that while hammered cases and dials were almost exclusively reserved for the most high-end watches, it’s starting to make its way into slightly more affordable models.
One brand that’s never struggled to find innovative ways to keep its dials and cases fresh is Ming. An independent watchmaker based in Kuala Lumpur, founder Ming Thein develops watches using photography techniques that turn a watch’s face from spectacular color to black based on where the hands are positioned and 3D prints the most spectacular mesh bracelets. It’s easily one of the most trailblazing players on the scene. For proof, look no further than the new 37.06 Royal Selangor.
MING THEIN | MINGTHEIN.COM
Established in 1885, Royal Selangor is a Malaysian pewter maker headquartered in Kuala Lumpur that produces jewelry, trophies, objects, tableware, and more. Though pewter is rarely used in watch dials, Ming Thein realized its horological potential: by hammering its surface such that each example is different, he and the artisans at Royal Selangor created an 88-piece limited edition that offers a taste of high-end finishing techniques for well under $10,000. Paired to a titanium case, the undulating surface of the pewter backdrop comes alive, with each hammer mark producing a small valley of material that gives the impression of a Moon-like surface. Needless to say, the effect is striking.
Widen your aperture to take in more than just Ming’s new watch, and you quickly realize that the watch industry is playing to MC Hammer’s beat lately: models from fellow boutique favorite Anoma to high-end independent Parmigiani Fleurier are all using similar techniques.
