Spiced pastries and flatbreads are draws at L.A.’s next great bakery
Breads of many shapes sit in a row on the front counter at three-week-old Kouzeh Bakery, on display behind glass. My eye goes first to a thin disc propped up on a wooden stand. From several feet away, its sandy color and moonscape surface bring to mind a 13th century copper astrolabe that I fixated on at the also-just-opened David Geffen Galleries at LACMA less than a mile away. Why Kouzeh is L.A.’s next great bakery Up close, I read that it was latir, a leavened flatbread that originated in Yazd, a central desert province in Iran that once connected the ancient Spice and Silk Roads. Every baker seasons theirs differently. Pastry chef Sahar Shomali, Kouzeh’s owner, sprinkles her version with black and white sesame seeds, cumin and fresh dill. Soon, I’d be ripping into its crisped edges and softer, pebbled center. Next to the latir is ghelefi, a mounded loaf filled with turmeric-stained mashed potatoes and baked in a pan until the top is crackly. Fenugreek and caraway seeds, fragrant and crunchy, crown plush …

