2018 was the fashion industry’s reckoning with its own image. Fashion photographers Patrick Demarchelier, Bruce Weber, Mario Testino and Terry Richardson were dropped by the industry at large after numerous lawsuits claimed that the photographers had abused their power by exploiting their subjects. Their names were banished from the pages of glossy magazines owned by Condé Nast and Hearst.

In their absence, the industry made way for new talent with women photographers shooting magazine covers, while museums reflected the sudden shift with dedicated exhibitions such as Tate Britain’s Lee Miller survey and the Metropolitan Museum of Art’s The New Woman Behind the Camera. But now that the dust has settled on the past, the work of male fashion photographers is being celebrated again. Penn & Fashion at Maison Européenne de la Photographie (MEP) coincides with Paris Fashion Week, opening on September 30; Tim Walker’s Fairyland: Love and Legends opens at the National Portrait Gallery in London on October 9; We All Dress for Bill will open at the New York Historical will open in the winter of 2027 and a Richard Avedon documentary will arrive on Netflix on November 11. So, what’s changed?