The women reshaping kitchen culture
For a long time, the image of the chef has been remarkably consistent: a man in a white jacket, barking orders in a hot kitchen and demanding perfection from everyone around him. At the Chef’s Table Festival in Park City, Utah, last month, the women chefs I encountered offered a much more expansive definition of what it means to cook — and what it means to lead a kitchen. They weren’t presenting a single vision for the future of food. They were doing something more interesting: building careers around their own identities, experiences and ideas rather than trying to force themselves into the traditional mold of what a chef is supposed to look like. During a panel titled “Women Shaping the Future of Food,” chefs Fariyal Abdullahi, Sarah Glover and Betül Tunç talked about everything from social media and motherhood to femininity, cultural identity and the pressures of building a career in an industry that has not always made much room for women. For Abdullahi, visibility is part of that work. She told the audience …


