The first time Hannah Martin went to a concert, she was in utero. It was to see the Rolling Stones, and it sparked a lifelong love of rock, punk and everything in between.

Long known for channelling a rebellious spirit into her high-end jewellery and personal style, it was fate, perhaps, that brought her together with the ultimate Queen of Noise, Joan Jett, back in 2021. The pair met by chance, while both staying at the Sunset Marquis Hotel in Los Angeles. With rock-star stylist Maryam Malakpour in common, their first encounter was one for the books.

‘Maryam had a meeting with Joan and asked if she could take some jewellery over,’ recalls Martin. ‘I was just working in my room and got this call from Maryam going: “Um, could you come over here and pierce Joan’s ear?”’ Martin mentally flicked through her Rolodex of Los Angeles piercers, but decided to take up the mantle herself. ‘It was the ultimate rock ’n’ roll icebreaker.’

Five years on, Martin and Jett’s friendship has endured, and now the duo have collaborated on a 14-piece collection of punk-inspired jewellery, celebrating 45 years of Joan Jett and the Blackhearts’ seminal album ‘I Love Rock ’n’ Roll’.

With Jett as her muse, Martin set to work on creating a collection that spoke to the musician’s legacy while avoiding cliché.

‘I think Joan’s pretty fed up of people doing “safety-pin things”, so one of the first conversations we had was: this cannot be a cliché,’ explains Martin. ‘It can’t just be recreating Joan’s style; it needs to be a creative project in itself. And that’s what I do with my work in general. I don’t want to just make rock-and-roll jewellery – there are plenty of people doing that. I like to assess the iconography and symbolism in a look, and then consider how you can have a nod to that and bring elegance and luxury, without losing the element.’

‘The biggest thing was that everything had to feel authentic,’ echoes Jett. ‘Nothing too over the top or that felt like a costume. I wanted things I’d actually wear, that felt comfortable.’

Martin points to the eclectic references pinned to the moodboard behind her. ‘We’ve got a really cool picture of Joan, and then we’ve got some Brâncuși, and it all needed to mix.’

At the core of the collection is a pacifier necklace inspired by one Jett wore in the 1980s. Martin’s interpretation transforms the original into a sculptural stack of Brâncuși-inspired orbs, suspended from leather and silver-link lanyards that can be worn around the neck or wrapped around the wrist.

‘The original pacifier necklace was eaten by my dog, so I’m happy to have it back, but in a completely different way,’ Jett reveals. ‘I love that those influences are still part of my style all these years later.’

The Blackhearts, Jett’s band of more than four decades, provide another point of inspiration. Martin combines two of her signature teardrop motifs to create a heart with attitude, punctuated by spiky, reverse-set black diamonds. The safety pin, one of punk’s most enduring symbols, is distilled into an elongated, curving line of silver. Meanwhile, the humble concert badge becomes a precious enamel pin, hand-painted with the words ‘Bad Reputation’, in a nod to one of Jett’s greatest hits.

The collection makes a compelling case for grown-up punk, with pieces that feel equally at home alongside high jewellery as a leather jacket.

‘For me, punk’s an attitude. It’s more than a musical movement,’ says Martin. ‘There are political beliefs linked to it, but it’s also a DIY feeling of, “Let’s fucking do this. Let’s experience life. Make it happen.”’

That spirit, she argues, can manifest in all sorts of ways, some subtle, some more overt. Many of Martin’s most devoted clients are what she affectionately calls her ‘Mayfair Ladies’: women who might not immediately be associated with punk, but who are still drawn to her work.

‘The feedback I get all the time is about how it makes people feel. People use the word “powerful” or “empowered”, or say there’s a sensuality to it. It wakes something up that feels good. There are a lot of pieces that have got a little element of being rebellious, but they also work with your Cartier and everything else.’

For Jett, the idea is equally fluid. ‘To me, rebellion has always been about being yourself and not letting other people tell you what you can or can’t do,’ she adds. ‘When I was starting out, there were plenty of people who didn’t think girls belonged in rock ’n’ roll. I wasn’t interested in following anybody else’s rules. I just wanted to play the music I loved and wear what felt right to me. I don’t think that’s really changed.’

And for Martin, working with Jett has also offered a lesson in creative integrity. As a woman who has spent more than five decades fronting a rock band in a male-dominated industry, Jett has maintained an unmistakable sense of self.

‘The thing that comes through strongest is the authenticity she’s managed to hold on to throughout her entire career,’ says Martin. ‘To still come through to this stage in her career and her life and not seem jaded by it, and to still have the same authenticity – that’s so refreshing. Just being really honest and transparent, good at what you do, and sticking with the beliefs that you have, through whatever she’s had to put up with over all of these 45 years. That’s the thing I take away from the Godmother of Punk.’

The collection comprises 14 transformable necklaces and earrings, rings and cuffs, belts and pins, with prices ranging from £300 to £20,280. It is available now at Maxfield LA, DSMNY and HannahMartinLondon.com.