There are few greater joys than a freshly polished leather shoe, an essential when it comes to a winter season of decadent dressing. For A/W 2026, glossy, patent and high-shine footwear appeared across the menswear collections, from the introduction of lustrous caviar leather at Church’s (a material as luxurious as the name suggests) to the elongated footwear at Saint Laurent, which saw Anthony Vaccarello reimagine traditional men’s shoes, from monk-straps to slippers, in glossy patent leather (continuing the wipe-clean mood, some were worn with black latex socks). Elsewhere, the Italian designer Brunello Cucinelli – a master of easy elegance and an expert in the men’s wardrobe – introduced these ‘glossed’ loafers, a minimal, round-toed style in highly polished leather designed to complement any evening-time attire.
They fit within a wider mood of dressing up which ran through the Autumn/Winter season, from Jonathan Anderson’s ‘aristo-youths’ at Dior Men (the designer imagined his partygoers dashing through the streets of Paris in riffs on the evening suit and tuxedo), to Prada’s reclamation of the cufflink – a largely abandoned accessory that recalls a bygone era of menswear. ‘We questioned: what should remain, from the past – and what can you build, from what you learn?’ said co-creative directors Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons.
Here, we select eight of the best high-shine men’s shoes befitting a season of dressing up.
The ultimate in evening attire, these Brunello Cucinelli shoes capture the Italian designer’s eye for easy – if impossibly elevated – elegance. Each pair is handmade in Italy from ‘glossed’ leather, lending them a gleaming shine that will likely look best on the dancefloor.
Church’s has been making footwear since 1617, meaning that when it comes to procuring a classic style – whether a loafer, brogue or Derby – you rarely need look further than the British shoemaker. These Maesteg loafers are one such example: made from soft calfskin designed to envelop the foot like a ‘second skin’, the fumé leather has been meticulously polished for an ultra-smooth finish.
There is an inflection of kink to these elongated, wipe-clean patent leather Oxfords, part of Anthony Vaccarello’s A/W 2026 menswear collection for Saint Laurent. Indeed, the Belgian designer – who recently left the house after a decade – describes the winter collection as one of ‘intimacy, vulnerability [and] eroticism’.
Jonathan Anderson’s menswear collections for Dior have riffed on the tenets of eveningwear – from morning coats and tuxedos to bow ties and brooches (albeit in the designer’s twisted, undone style). These Derby shoes capture a similar spirit: crafted from high-shine patent leather with an embossed Dior logo, they are called the ‘Timeless Derby’ – a nod to their enduring appeal.
Loewe has a 180-year history of working with leather – a landmark anniversary that the Spanish house celebrated earlier this year. Now led by Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez, Loewe’s new ‘Bobine’ silhouette – currently used across loafers, derby shoes and Chelsea boots – shows off the house’s superlative skills in the material, seeing brushed calfskin cleverly moulded for a subtly sculptural finish.
Another traditional bootmaker, John Lobb has been crafting footwear for over a century (its eponymous founder walked on foot from Cornwall to London in 1851 to begin his apprenticeship in shoemaking). As such, craft remains central to the brand – which is now part of the Hermès group – as evidenced by these ‘Edward’ loafers, built on the slender 7000 last and constructed from lustrous panels of patent leather.
Eel leather, which is known a the ‘silk of the sea’ for its delicate texture and lustrous, luxurious finish, has become increasingly ubiquitous in recent seasons – collections from Saint Laurent, Proenza Schouler, Durazzi Milano and The Row have all featured eel-skin accessories in the past year. From the last, a pair of signature soft, ruched loafers, crafted from panels of brown eel leather in Italy.
Recent years have seen Junya Watanabe become a prolific collaborator, which each runway collection featuring an extensive list of the collaborative pieces which appear throughout (the Japanese designer has put his avant-garde spin on Levi’s, Carhartt and Brooks Brothers, among several others). These classic Tricker’s brogues are one such example, remade in glossy, high-shine leather.
A version of this article appears in the December 2026 issue of Wallpaper*, available from 5 November in print on newsstands, on the Wallpaper* app on Apple iOS, and to subscribers of Apple News +.